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Mosque of Ahmed Ibn Tulun
The Mosque
The site chosen for his mosque was an outcrop of rock
called Gabal Yashkur. Is It situated in sharia Al Saliba.
1-It is the oldest intact functioning Islamic monument
in Cairo. It is considered the 3rd mosque which was
constructed for the whole community or the congregation
joined together for the Friday noon prayer.
2- It is also rare preserved example of the art and the
architecture
of the classical period of Islam.
It is one of the biggest mosques in Egypt. The mosque
together with the ziyada occupies an area of 6.5 acres .
The founder
Ahmed Ibn Tulun ( 263-265 A.H ), born about 835 A.D, he
is one of the Turkish commanders in Samarra in Iraqu. He
receives his military and theological training in
Samarra and Tarsus .His intelligence and courage
attracted the attention of the Khalif and in 868 A.D he
made proxy for his step-father Bakabak’s governorship of
Egypt.
He established himself as an independent ruler for the
Province. An abortive attempt to remove him encouraged
Ahmed to attach Syria .
Ahmed Ibn Tulun founded a new Capital called Alqatai
around the hill of Gabal Yashkur , to the NE of Al
Fustat , razing the Christian and the Jewish cemetery
that was located in that area.
The plan of the Mosque
It is nearly square in shape , measures 162 m. in length
and 161 m. in width. The area which is dedicated for the
prayer is rectangular in shape measures about 137 m. x
118 m.
It was designed as open court or central square Sahn
(about 92 m) Surrounded by four riwaqs. The riwaq of the
quibla contains 5 arcades . while each of the other
riwaqs consists of 2 arcades.
* The mosque surrounded by Ziyadas ( extension) on 3
sides, the Ziyada is an enclosed space or precinct to
separate the mosque from the markets and in order to
protect the mosque and the prayers from the noise of the
street.
* Outside the mosque on the quibla wall there was a
palace or Dar El Imarah (house of the government ,or the
ruler residence ) , now destroyed , with its own
entrance near to the Mihrab from which Ahmed Ibn Tulun
used to enter to the mosque before leading the prayer.
The Entrance of the Mosque
This mosque has19 doors on 3 sides , each door
corresponding To another door in the ziyadas , and there
are another 3 doors cut in the wall of the quibla .the
lintels are composed of palm-trunks, boxed with wood and
above a releasing arch , some of these doors still
retain their original carving.
The Foundation Slate
On the right hand central Pier of the 3rd arcade from
the sahn is the Foundation Slate ; it includes the
Foundation Inscription , it is a rectangular slab of
marble ( 1,6 m. X 97 cm.) written in Kufic inscription
and it contains The verse of El Kursi ( Ayat Al Kursi)
from the Koran and the date of 265 A.H .
The Crenulations
Both the walls of the mosque and the Ziyada are crowned
with crenulations which are similar to the paper
cut-outs of human figures with linked arms.
The Sahn ( the courtyard )
It is square in shape, each of its sides measures about
92 m.
The original courtyard was not paved and filled with
pebbles as it is today, because this space was intended
for prayer.
The Fawarah in the middle of the Sahn is the 3rd one,
the first one was the original built by Ahmed Ibn Tulun.
It was gilded and stood on 10 columns of marble. The 2nd
one was Al Aziz but was destroyed .The actual one is the
third built by The sultan Lagin Al Mansoury among some
other works he did for the mosque. ( it is 14 X 12 m. )
and it is 20 m. in height. This Fawarah was built by the
architect Ibn Al Roumyyah . It has a Mameluk design ;
it is stood on 4 pointed arches , the zone of transition
has stepped corners with a window in the uppermost step
and 3 windows of 3 lights on each side .
The dome is plain without a drum and raised on squinch .
Above , a continuos stalactite frieze runs around the
base of the dome and above that a band of Naskhi
inscription from the Koran dealing with the ablution.
The Arcades
The arcades around the courtyard or the Sahn which are
deeper on the quibla Riwaq or the sanctuary side are
formed by pointed Arches on brick Piers .Rosettes and
windows form a continuous and simple decoration. These
arcades are supported by piers.
Unlike columns .These Piers are rectangular and
decorated with four masonry-engaged columns. Their
capitals have the same bell shape as the bases ,and both
plastered and carved.
Originally would seem that all of the arcades had
soffits of curved stucco similar to those which have
been restored in the Southern arcade.
The arches
The Arches of the arcades are pointed , They are
outlined with an edge of carved stucco ,and spring from
oblong supports rounded at the corners by pilasters or
engaged columns.
The Quibla Riwaq( The Sanctuary )
It includes 5 aisles deeper than the others and they are
parallel to the Prayer niche ( the Mihrab), while each
of the other riwaq includes just 2 aisles . This Riwaq
actually has 6 prayer niches or mihrabs
the main Mihrab is in the middle of the quibla wall , it
is the tallest and the only concave one The others are
flat .It consists of a double pointed arched recess
flanked by a pair
Byzantine style marble columns with basket work
capitals. Its stucco moluding and the 2 stucco bosses on
each side of the arch are original. The interior is
decorated in Mameluk style made by the sultan Lajin, the
upper decoration of painted wood , and strips of
polychrome marble , above which is a band of Naskhi
inscription in black mosaic on a gold background
containing the shahada .
The Dikka of the Mouballegh( the bench of the Mouballegh)
is situated in Riwaq Al Quibla near the courtyard . it
is a wide bench of marble columns used for communicating
the words of the Imam during the prayer.
The Ceiling
The ceiling is composed of Palm logs boxed in wooden
panels. Below the ceiling there are a long band of
inscription on sycamore wood which runs around the whole
mosque contains verses from the Koran. This frieze is 2
Km. In length, and it is calculate one fifteenth of the
whole holly book .There is a legend that the boards used
for this inscription are left over from the Noah’s Ark.
The Windows
The upper part of the mosque wall is pierced with
pointed arch windows flanked with colonnades .The
windows alternate on the outside wall within blind
niches with a shell conch .
There are 128 windows and their arrangements on the
walls are independent of the arches so that not every
arch has a centred window. The functions of these arched
windows of the arched windows are providing light and
reduce the weight carried by the arches.
Creswell attributes only 4 of the windows stucco grills
to the Tulunide Period, those of the plain geometrical
design, while the rest displaying a large variety of
more complicated geometrical patterns date back to the
Fatimide and the Mameluk Periods.
The Minaret
It stands on the North side of the Ziyada, where a door
leads to it is an unusual stone structure with an outer
staircase ,and a Mameluk top of the type named Mabkhara.
This minaret caused controversy among the Cairo’s
Architectural historians, it is attributed by some
especially the prominent Creswell to t5ehy sultan Lajin
and by others to Ahmed Ibn Tulun. We don't have enough
sources to clear this point or determine its date .

